Knitting is hardly ever viewed as challenging or cutting edge design, however, 29 year old Scottish designer Jenny McHardy is pushing the boundaries to confront these perceptions. 

Jenny, who is currently studying at the Royal College of Art in London, is putting the edge into knitting with a range of garments intended to intimidate.  She graduated in Textiles and Surface Design from Gray’s School of Art in Aberdeen last summer when she focused on the themes of danger, protection and fragility.

“I looked into the topic broadly at first” she explains “however I quickly decided that man-made danger in the urban environment was the most interesting area to study in depth. I researched danger/hazard signs and symbols, looking at their simplistic graphic shape and bright warning colours. I looked at the protective clothing worn by people who work in dangerous occupations, such as fire fighters and the police. I also looked back at historical armour worn throughout the centuries.”

As a contrast she then researched fragility, looking at the complex emotional side of protection.  “Manipulation, aggression and weakness in human nature were the topics I was most interested in” she continues. “I researched materials and processes widely, developing and combining textiles that convey a sense of protection for the body from both physical and emotional harm.”

Jenny has been knitting since she was four years old when she was taught by her granny, and she now works in hand and machine knit along with traditional/digital print.  She says “I combine these elements together to produce garments which look visually intimidating/ threatening and convey a strong sense of danger, in order to protect/conceal inner weakness/softness.”

Her collection of garments and textiles all work together to protect the wearer from physical harm but it’s the emotional side of protection which she considers to be the most important element to their design.   Some garments contain hidden meanings with ‘you make me go weak at the knees’ sewn inside and swear words on the outside.

She explains her collection of one-off pieces which have a strong and clear element of punk revival. 

“I chose to redesign the mitten as they remain safe and comforting and child like in appearance. I wanted to make them much more masculine and tough in appearance, and perhaps something men would want to wear.  They are hand knitted in Rowans Big Wool yarn, incorporating metal washers, zips at the top of the arm, printed leather straps and padded removable elbow pads.

“The machine knitted dress is in lambs wool and dissolvable yarn.  The open design of the knit is the shape of a human heart to signify the saying ‘you’re heartless’. The spine of the dress is made from printed leather and heat set yarn spikes, this part of the dress is an over scaled representation of the form of the human spine to signify the saying ‘you’re spineless’.  The colour is also very important to its design, while red is the traditional warning colour of danger this shade of orange is found on chemical warning labels, such as the irritant sign.

“I wanted to reinvent the design of the naff 1980’s style legwarmer, as I found that they have inadequate protective qualities - they only keep your ankles warm - and I knew that they had the potential to become a far more intimidating item of clothing.  They are hand knitted in Rowans Big Wool yarn, incorporating metal washers, zips at the thigh and ankle, printed leather straps and with light reflecting yarn strips from the front of the foot to mid leg."

Jenny hopes to work in fashion when she has completed her studies at the RCA.

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