It was a simple invitation to a birthday party themed on paper which started textile artist Malcolm Cruickshank on an unexpected creative journey.  He decided to make a paper kilt to wear and while researching the modern kilt he became fascinated with the surface created by the stitching and the fact that the process created a kind of textile in itself.

A graduate of Contemporary Applied Arts from Cumbria Institute of the Arts, Malcolm had until then created primarily decorative items such as furniture and jewellery.  He then became intrigued by the idea of an ‘art’ kilt and was successful when he applied for a Dewar Arts Award to enable him to develop an exhibition exploring this concept. 

In his work he primarily takes inspiration from the world around him, past and present, and one of his obsessions is the reuse of discarded materials.  A gardener’s kilt reuses surplus weed control fabric which he used when laying a new flower bed at work and transformed into fabric for clothing.  

“My work often involves words and text” he explains. “For me, the correct placement of a word or phrase can make or break a piece.  The lyric kilts combine this interest with my love of music.  Having analysed what I like about music, I came to the conclusion that the lyrics are what give it meaning for me.  I took lyrics from some of my favourite songs by REM, Placebo, The Beatles, The White Stripes and The Happy Mondays, writing them down a line at a time and mixing each lyric with the next to create a continuous text.

“The aim of the clubber’s kilt is to provide a satirical social commentary, encouraging the viewer to look at the modern lifestyle in a different way.  During a night out at the City Café in Edinburgh, I collected over 150 club fliers, which are continuously dropped on the tables by promoters and bar staff.  I had the idea of utilising the ephemeral images which the industry uses to tempt people inside.  My initial intention was to use the actual fliers but this idea developed instead into a magnificent printed fabric which presents a hitherto unseen surface and challenges the eye to put dismembered objects into a new but recognisable situation, in this case a piece of clothing.

“I did not set out to become a kilt maker, certainly not in any traditional sense, and the products in the exhibition, whilst all entirely functional, are intended to be art objects first and foremost.”

This collection of funky and innovative ‘art’ kilts and sporrans is a refreshing take on Scottish traditional dress bringing it forward into the 21st century.

The exhibition ‘Haute Kilture’ took place in September 2006 and Malcolm is seeking further venues for 2007.  He is currently artist in residence with Midlothian Council and in December wove blue and yellow bags into an Ikea tartan kilt for the Ikea Edinburgh Winter Festival.  He is holding a solo exhibition at the Bonhoga Gallery on Shetland in May/June 2007.

The Dewar Arts Awards, which were set up in memory of Scotland’s First First Minister Donald Dewar, are given to young Scots of outstanding ability in any art form who have insufficient funds to realise their creative potential.  Find out more about the awards. 

Contact Malcolm

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